季節が移り変わる10月　October is a month of transitions in Hiraizumi

平泉では、１０月というのは季節が変わる時期です。本格的に秋に移り変わる中、気候は段々と寒くなっていって、木の葉も色づきはじめてきます。また、季節の象徴でもある稲穂の束が町内の田んぼで多くみられるようになります。

しかし、今年最後の「平泉の緑」を見ようとする方々には、まだまだ人気な時期です。特に、夏の暑さを避けたい人たちにとっては、尚更です。というわけで、ここで改めて町内の主な観光先とおすすめルートを紹介しておきたいと思います。

平泉観光といえば、まずは毛越寺・中尊寺の両寺です。休日には、巡回バス「るんるん」がどちらにも止まりますので、駅からのアクセスがとても便利です。また、毛越寺は駅からの距離が近く、徒歩でも１２分ぐらいで行けます。もちろん、駅では自転車の貸し出しもありますので、好きなペースで行動できます。

世界遺産の構成資産の一つである毛越寺は、浄土庭園として高く評価されています。８００年も前の様子がしっかり整備されている庭園で、平安時代の風景が伝わります。また、１０月中には、本堂の中も特別に拝観できますので、いつもより近くでご本尊様をご覧になってみて下さい。

October is a month of transitions in Hiraizumi. The weather grows colder ahead as fall begins in earnest, and by the end of the month the leaves will have changed and, in some places, begun to fall. With the growing season drawing to a close, you can spot bundles of harvested rice tied up to dry in fields around town, waiting collection and processing.

As a last gasp before the green goes, and the weather dips below freezing, however, it’s a chance for people to get one more look at a green Hiraizumi for the year, and especially welcome for anyone who held out for their time to dodge the summer heat. So before the scenery changes, how about a roundup of the sights to see in town, and the best way to get around?

The mainstay of any visit to Hiraizumi are the two temples, Mōtsū-ji and Chūson-ji. On a weekend visit, the Run-Run Loop Bus runs a circuit from the train station, stopping at both, making it just about the most convenient way to get around. Otherwise, Mōtsū-ji is a short walk from the station, about 12 minutes, or you could rent a bike just outside the station to get around swiftly.

One of the five world heritage properties, Mōtsū-ji Temple traces its history to Heian-period Hiraizumi, almost 800 years ago. The temple is known for its garden, which has been preserved so well that it is recreated today in almost exactly the same form as when it was first built! Throughout all of October, the temple also opens its main prayer hall to the public, allowing you to get a closer look at the altar decorations, and even observe a prayer service if you like.

　

　

レンタサイクルを使う場合は、毛越寺の後に、３０分ぐらい離れている達谷窟毘沙門堂もおすすめします。１２世紀の毛越寺・中尊寺よりも歴史の長い達谷窟ですが、崖から浮き出るように見える紅色の毘沙門堂はかなりの迫力です。また、岩壁に刻まれている岩面大仏も必見です。

平泉の中心部に戻ると、毛越寺から中尊寺までは歩いて20分ぐらいですが、その途中にある平泉文化遺産センターにも訪れると良いです。平安時代の藤原氏と平泉の成立、又は世界遺産の文化財についての文化歴史館で、この施設では平泉の魅力を存分に学ぶことができます。

中尊寺に着くと、参道である月見坂へと入っていきます。杉や椛などの老樹に囲まれた境内に入ると、間もなく外の世界から離れたお寺の雰囲気に包まれるでしょう。また、毎年１０月２０日から菊まつりも開かれますので、１０月下旬にお越しになる場合は、地域できれいに育てられている菊の展示も楽しめます。なお、９００年も大切に保存されてきた金箔に包まれた金色堂も必ず見逃さないことです。

If you rent a bike, you can also make the trip past Mōtsū-ji and continue for about 30-40 minutes to Takkoku no Iwaya Temple. While it isn’t entered as part of the World Heritage listing, this temple is even older! The hallmarks here are the striking red Hall of Bishamon, jutting straight out of the cliffside on tall stilts, and the remains of an enourmous buddha carving hewn directly into the rock! Without a bike, it’ll be a long walk, but you can also catch a taxi.

Returning to central Hiraizumi, you can go straight to Chūson-ji Temple, about a 30 minute walk from Mōtsū-ji, or stop midway at the Hiraizumi Cultural Heritage Center, a free museum with lots of great information about the World Heritage properties. This can also make a good first stop, to prime yourself with a little background knowledge before you visit the sites themselves!

Continuing on to Chūson-ji, you can park your bikes in the gravel lot near the entrance, and start climbing up Tsukimi-zaka Hill, the traditional route. Pretty soon, you’ll forget the outside world is only a short distance away, screened from view by the ancient redwoods and tall pines lining the trail. The Crysanthemum Fair here starts every year on October 20th, so if you visit later in the month, you can enjoy not only the sights of the temple, but a colorful display of flowers from community gardens. Be sure not to miss the Konjikidō, or Golden Hall, a fully gilded prayer hall that has been preserved ever since Chūson-ji was established, over 800 years ago.

　

　

中尊寺から更に１５分歩けば、高館義経堂もあります。１２世紀の優れた武将であった源義経が兄の頼朝に追われて平泉までたどり着いたのち、高館のこの場で命を落としたと言われています。義経の資料館や句碑の他には、展望台から北上川と向こうの山までの景色も見れます。

You may also wish to visit the Takadachi Gikeido Memorial, a small shrine about a 15 minute walk from Chūson-ji or Hiraizumi Station, which is dedicated to the memory of Minamoto no Yoshitsune. Yoshitsune was a famed warrior and skillful commander in the 12th century, but he earned the ire of his brother Yoritomo, founder of the Kamakura Shogunate, and fled to Hiraizumi, where his pursuers cornered him. Aside from the monument to this folk hero, the lookout from the memorial provides an excellent view of the Kitakami river valley and the mountains beyond.

　

　

平泉はそれぞれ好きなペースで回れるのが、またいい点の一つ。半日、一日、又は一晩泊まって存分にゆっくりと楽しむことができます。いずれにしても、どんな時期でもきっとその時ならではの魅力が待っています。

Depending on your pace, and how many stops you’d like to make, you can easily fill a morning, a day, or take it easy and stay the night to enjoy a nice leisurely itinerary!