冬めくワンダーランド　Winter Wonderland

１２月といえば、東北地方に冬が本格的に訪ねてくる時期です。そんな季節に対して暗くて寒い毎日のイメージを持っている人もいると思われますが、実はこの時期だからこそ楽しいこともあります。

ひとまずは雪ですね。雪が積もるにはかなり寒くならなくてはなりませんけど、降ったばかりの雪だらけの平泉の風景を見られるというのなら、それだけの価値があります。街中を歩くと、町全体が真っ白に塗られて、足元の道端の雪堤も、頭上の屋上も、日差しに眩しい程きれいに照らされます。

そして、平泉のお寺や遺跡では、その景色がまるっきり新しいキャラクターに生まれ変わります。毛越寺の浄土庭園では、降り積もった雪によって周辺の物音が変化します。遠くからの木の揺れが響いて伝わったり、サクサクと自分の足音さえが鈍く聞こえたりして、不思議に一人だけの世界を探検しているという気分になります。そして、大きい石の上や池の周りに積もる雪が、庭園の形式をさらに強調して描きます。

December is here in Hiraizumi, and with it, northern Japan’s winter. For some, that might bring to mind the cold and the dark, which aren’t everyone’s favorite things, but there’s plenty to like about this time of year!

While it might have to get cold for snow to fall, the sight of Hiraizumi covered in a layer of fresh snow is worth braving the chill. All through the streets, there’s a coating of smooth snow that shines in the sun, lighting up the scenery from the roofs above to the sidewalk at your feet.

And at Hiraizumi’s temples, the scenic temple grounds take on a whole new look. In the wide, open-air Jodo Garden at Mōtsū-ji, the snow plays with the ambient sounds, carrying echoes from far away and swallowing others close at hand. The entire effect creates a very curious atmosphere, where the silence can put you in the mindset of exploring the temple grounds all in your own little world. And the snow ringing the temple pond and piling up on the rock formations provides a great accent to the scenery of the garden.

氷の一面からドラマチックに突き刺さる毛越寺の立石
Mōtsū-ji’s standing stones jutting dramatically from the ice

中尊寺の方になると、両側の木々のおかげで雪が少し避けられますが、それでも登りかけの参道にやや積もることもあります。そして、上までたどり着く挑戦者には素敵な風景が待っています。きれいな展望が雪を羽織って、木々に積んだり大地と野山を一面に見せかけたり、更なる独特な魅力を表します。

When exploring Chūson-ji, the trees on other side of the trail can serve to screen some of the snow, but the climb up the hill to the temple complex proper can still be slick – a brief taste of real alpine adventure. Once you make it up, however the view from the top is worth it. While the viewing platform looking out onto the river valley and mountains to the east is lovely any time of year, the sight of the entire landscape decked out in white is particularly special; The trees laden with deposits of snow, and the fields and hills one unbroken expanse.

早朝の霞に道を照らす中尊寺の元日の灯
Lanterns guiding the way through early morning fog at Chūson-ji

町内の寺を巡り終わったら、少し体が冷えた場合、ホカホカな暖かいものを食べると良いです。平泉の観光地の近くにお蕎麦屋さんがいくつかありますが、岩手県南の郷土料理であるはっと汁をおすすめします。食べ応えのあるすいとんに人参、ねぎ、大根などの野菜汁ですので、少々甘味で食べやすく、体の奥まで温まります。

そして、１２月の末とお正月ですが、世界遺産の寺も初詣に人を招き入れます。今年はコロナ対策として、残念ながら縮小して行いますが、例年ですと庭園のライトアップで雪の庭園と真夜中の霧をきれいに照らし、除夜の鐘の撞き手も招かれます。駐車場や観自在院跡に屋台も立ち並び、暖かい食べ物・飲み物と年越しそばを食べることができます。

You might be starting to feel the chill after exploring the temples, but luckily, in Hiraizumi you’re never far from some hot tea and a warming bowl of soup. Soba noodles, with a variety of toppings to suit all tastes, are ubiquitous, or you can try a traditional local favorite, hatto jiru – A vegetable soup with flour dumplings. Between the light and drinkable broth and the hearty dumplings, it’s sure to leave you warmed to the core and re-energized after trudging through the cold.

And of course, at the end of the month, you can celebrate New Year’s in Japanese fashion by visiting Hiraizumi’s World Heritage temples. The Japanese tradition is to visit a temple or shrine at midnight, and offer a prayer to banish any lingering misfortune from the past year, and welcome in the blessings of the new year. While for 2021, the events will be unfortunately scaled down, in a typical year there are bonfires and torches strategically placed to warm your hands in line, lanterns to light the path, good-luck charms for sale, and snacks and refreshments, including hot noodles, tea, coffee, or mulled wine. Mōtsū-ji also accepts volunteers to help ring the large temple bell, to literally ring in the new year. Meanwhile, from atop the hill at Chūson-ji, you can get a chance at seeing the first sunrise of the year.